Monday 8 February 2010

Adventures in Tierra del Fuego January '10

I have just returned from hosting our first trip of the new decade. To say that it was adventure filled would be the understatement of the new decade.

Before getting on to the fishing portion of this blog, please allow me to recount some of the adventures. They are worth it!

The Adventures
I was joined by a very fine group from Ireland to fish the Rio Irigoyen, our beloved river in Tierra del Fuego. The group was made up of Duncan Sleeman, Sean Mannion, Aonghus O'Donnell, Spencer Woolfe and Patrick Seigne; all highly respected gentlemen in the field of medicine.

I always feel the beginning is a good place to start. My learned clients were due to land in Buenos Aires at 9.45 on the Friday morning, having flown from Cork to London and then on to Buenos Aires with British Airways. I was crestfallen to discover that, with no explanation, their flight was delayed till, at least, 12.45. I was picturing my frustrated and by now exhausted group arriving in a foul mood having missed most of their free day in Buenos Aires. I was already thinking of ways to raise their spirits on arrival. The only explanation I could think of was that their flight had been held up in Sao Paulo (where it has a scheduled stop) due to the flooding which had been plaguing much of Brazil in January.


Imagine my surprise when, a few hours later, they arrived through arrivals, far from gloomy, but instead in very high spirits (spirits being the key word here). I was even more surprised to discover that they were in fact the reason for the delay.


It transpired that while sleeping peacefully at the very back of the Economy cabin, a call came over asking for a doctor of medicine. Three of the group being an assortment of very specialised dentists and jaw specialists, elbowed Aonghus, a leading cardiologist and Patrick, a leading anaesthetist, deciding that they would be the most useful unless a passenger was suffering from a jaw fracture or unexpected, emergency gum disease.


Aonghus and Patrick sleepily made their way forward to find a woman who had suffered a severe heart attack and whom the crew were presuming to be beyond help. Patrick found a weak pulse and Aonghus administered a shot of adrenaline which brought the fortunate woman back. The plane made an hallucinating 10 minute descent to the airport of Recife in North East Brazil to be met by waiting paramedics. We hear that the patient survived and is doing well. It was quite clear that Aonghus and Patrick saved her life.

Irelande 10 Points”


What other way was there for the Captain to thank our intrepid medics but to lead them swiftly up to First Class, much to the surprise of the few passengers who had parted with nearly £5,000 for the privilege of sitting up front. Sean, Duncan and Spencer who, although not directly participants in the mid-air emergency, felt that the emotional support they had offered had earned them a trip up-front as well. How could the captain refuse???

Suffice to say that our intrepid docs discovered the joys of Johnny Walker Blue Label and vintage Bolly while lounging in First Class: hence their high spirits when I met them on arrival.

I must conclude this memoir of their adventures with the most incredible part. After we had said our fond farewells at Heathrow T5, our doctors transferred to T1 to catch their flights to Cork and Dublin. While taxi-ing to the runway, a passenger on the Aer Lingus flight suffered a heart attack. Aonghus and Patrick looked at each other: “Here we go again!” They were able to keep the woman stable until the plane returned to the stand and emergency services were able to take her away.

“Irelande, 20 Points”. Now what are the chances of that????

The Fishing

Now for the fishing. The doctors were the guinea-pig group for Far End Rivers Lodge’s new heli-fishing program. The guides had scouted some extremely remote rivers to the South of the Irigoyen: the Leticia and the Policarpo. The latter is believed to be the southernmost fishable river in the world: no small claim.

As it turned out, we found that the great joy of having the chopper was not particularly to visit these remote, but small rivers, but the ability to fish the upper pools of the Irigoyen instead. The upper part of the river is, quite simply, stunning and an absolutely joy to fish.

I was quite convinced that, following their amazing exploits in the sky, added to the famous “Luck of the Irish”, we would have a bonanza week. A massive 9m tide was expected on the Thursday promising a massive run of fish for the last 3 days. Sadly, and amazingly unluckily at this time of year, the tide was accompanied by a vicious cold front coming from the Antarctic which brought consistent heavy rain and even snow and sleet. The river flooded and quickly turned to the colour of milk chocolate.

The group kept their spirits high and were now grateful for the first three, difficult, but productive days. Sean Mannion broke his personal best (from the Gallegos), the season’s best and the Latin American Fishing Co best with a beautiful fish which was calculated as being 23lbs, but most feel that it was closer to 25lbs(see picture above). Duncan Sleeman also broke a personal best with a fish of just over 20lbs. In fact, in one day, Duncan caught 5 fish, 4 of which were 20lb, 18lb, 15lb and 10lb. I think you can say that is hitting the mother load. Patrick Seigne, for whom this was a first trip to Argentina, managed to nail 6 fish on his first day.

The total for the week was 23 fish caught. Several good Robalos were caught in the sea pool, with Sean Mannion, yet again, nailing a season’s best at a little over 10lbs.

Best flies were: In daylight, Bitch Creeks (orange), Wonder Bugs in black and olive, Girdle Bugs and various rubber legged nymphs, collie dog and Sunray Shadow tube flies. In the evenings: Egg sucking leeches and articulated black leeches.

Despite the very unlucky conditions, some beautiful fish were caught, a great deal of fun was had and the guiding was as dedicated, charming and supportive as ever. Alex and Nico are absolute stars and all love fishing with them. The lodge’s new addition is Fernando who proved to be a wonderful addition to the team. His tireless dedication to his charges, good humour and hard work won everybody over.

Last but far from least, Maira, our charming cook created wonderful meals time and time again. Thank you to all at Far End Rivers.

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